Everyone that’s come to visit or spoken to me about Salzburg from afar has asked the same question: how do you cope with the tourists? The truth is, I lived in Venice for two months in 2013 where it is near impossible to cross a bridge for tourists taking pictures of each other (and there are a lot of bridges in Venice) – so navigating Salzburg during Festspiele is a cinch in comparison. It’s actually really fun to people watch, and I never fail to be surprised at something I see or overhear as I walk from my apartment to the Summer Academy and back again. I made a list of impressions in my iPhone notes of the things I saw in one journey, and I leave it here now as a – still incomplete – poem of sorts.
A man playing classical guitar
A horse-drawn carriage
A bike tour
A man with aviators and dreadlocks beneath his helmet leading a Segway tour
Scharfe Lange, Scharfe Lange, Scharfe Lange
An uncountable number of shops selling Mozart eggs
Two impeccably dressed priests
Europe’s biggest Amber store
A small crowd watching two toddlers and a baby playing in a water fountain
How many Knödel is too many Knödel?
A priest on a scooter
A t-shirt that says “I – then a picture of a pretzel – Philly”
Three horse-drawn carriages
A sign outside a church which says “Sext in the City” (do they know what sexting is?)
Metal boxes full of pre-sliced cake
15 August 2018
by Chloe Stead
Chloe Stead is a writer and critic based in Berlin. Her criticism has been published by frieze, frieze d/e, Spike Art Quarterly, Sleek, Art + Australia and AnOther Magazine. Her fiction was featured most recently in Pfeil Magazine #8, published by Montez Press.
She holds a BA from Goldsmiths University of London and an MA from the Hochschule für Bildende Künste Hamburg.